But, it ain't really that bad.

Yes, Belize City has crime, and yes, it's dirty and congested, and the streets are confusing.  Sounds just like New York, St. Louis, Chicago, LA, Houston, Miami and Atlanta to me.  The thing is, you can't treat Belize City as if it were a colorful Disney World re-enactment of a Caribbean port in the late 1800s.

You have to treat Belize City as a city full of all different kinds of people, some poor, some rich, some thieves or beggars (or both), some salt-of-the-earth folks, some Christians, some Muslims -- well, you get the point.  Just do what the nice policemen told you in grade school - know where you are, be aware of your surroundings, don't accept rides from strangers, and let someone know when you'll be "home."

So, if you're willing to accept those parameters, are a little bit adventurous, have some extra time, and would like to see a definitely "non-touristy" side of Belize, then you might very well enjoy Belize City.

Some things I've really enjoyed when visiting Belize City (besides just the great people watching) are:

• Belize Museum - brand new, with some really good exhibits (the Museum is housed in the old Belize prison, which is interesting in and of itself)
• Swing Bridge - very colorful, with a definite sea-faring flavor
• Image Factory - a good place for current Belizean art
• Handicrafts Center - some nice stuff, especially the furniture
• Queen Street - feels sort of like a main street in a small southern US town, but with lots of Caribbean flavor, including street vendors selling fresh fruits and vegetables, coconut oil, tropical herbal cures, fresh cashews, baked goods, kitchenware, hammocks, bootlegged CDs, wood carvings, newspapers, and who knows what all else on any particular day
• Fort George Area - an old part of Belize City where you can see examples of British Colonial architecture, some restored, some not (many of these buildings managed to somehow survive Hurricane Hattie in 1961, even though Hattie destroyed most of Belize City and was responsible for the move of the country's capital from Belize City to Belmopan)

One of the best ways to get a flavor of Belize City is by cab.  I may have just been born under a lucky star as far as cab drivers go, but my experience with Belize City cab drivers has been very, very good.  They seem to know where to find whatever you need, whether watch repairs, used auto parts, Halloween decorations, a new pair of shoes, the best rice and beans in town, whatever.  And, I've always found them to be kind and helpful, and their fares very reasonable.  (Plus, they can keep you out of those parts of Belize City where you probably ought not to be - just as there are parts of any city it's best to avoid.)

Although BTL (Belize Telecommunications Limited) has made it as hard as possible for non-residents to use telephones in Belize, if you have the time to take a cab tour of Belize City, find some place that sells BTL phone cards, and give one of these cab drivers a call and ask if they have time to show you around. (Tell them Mary from Placencia suggested that you call - - or send me an email and I'll be happy to help you with arrangements.)

• Glenford Usher (nickname is "Gang," but don't let that scare you off, he's a sweetheart):  606-1547
• Gerald Gillet:  600-5501 (knows a lot about the physical development of modern Belize because he used to drive trucks all over the country long before most of its roads were paved)
• Harley Burn:  608-2741 (a young man with an interesting background including a stint in the US Marines, he's also a poet focusing on modern life in Belize, and will be glad to share some of his poetry with you)

(Note:  don't expect a polished City tour like you might get from Graylines, and a lot of what you see will be up to you.  For example, if you want to sample some good local cooking, ask about the best place to get a good local Belizean lunch (and treat your driver to lunch, too.).  Maybe ask him to show you his favorite part of the City, or the fish market, or one of the cemeteries.  Basically, just be yourself, and treat your cab tour as not only a way to see Belize City, but to make a Belizean friend.)

Can't think of anything else right now.  And, don't get me wrong,  I'm not suggesting that anyone spend their entire vacation in Belize City - other parts of Belize are more attractive, and offer much more to visitors.  But, if you do find yourself in Belize City with some time to spare, I hope the above suggestions will help you experience a part of Belize that most visitors don't ever see.